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The jacket was one of the difficult piece to work on as it did noses through the sewing Machine as it was to tacky ad stocked to the stud. Therefore I had to use the tearable material over the plastic material before sowing through the machine which made it difficult as I could not where I was sewing.

Overall I progresses and managed to get even balanced side pleats and the jacket turned as expected as the previous drape and toile.

Why did I choose this material? Well I liked the way the material glossed and on the other hand it also goes with the trafficking as its blastic and how victims are treated like one (uses and sold) which is heart breaking.

adjusting the skirt to a perfect couture fit.

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The middle image illustrates the fit of the skirt as if narrows a bit at the bottom.

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Pre fitting: the the translucent skirt and the padded skirt were in their final material the only non final material was the top toile, jacket and shoulder pads. The garment had lots of tweaking to do but later on after the fitting I realised that the top toile which I tried on was not the final toile (toile 6) I tried on toile 3 with was not a perfect feet ( this happened as I reuse it very embarrassing) the Gogol thing is inched the toile before was about to cut the final material.

Finally the next day I tried on the right toile (toile6 on) and it was a perfect fit which meant that I could start with the pattern cutting.

Thing that need tweaking

The top edge oh the translucent skirt

Narrow the side of the skirt ( pencils skirt bit tight).

Position the straps of the word sample to the measurements.

Inter facing the material:

As the material used for the top was stretchy I has to use interfacing to make the material hold its shape and to ad a bit of strength to it.

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Pattern cutting:

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To start with I made many toile toile/ sample of collar to perfect and and achieve a perfect final collar sample.

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In the above image it’s shows clearly how I have changed, tweaked and archived a perfect large sharp collar, as when it’s made stand high its creates a powerful atmosphere and reflects a strong women.

The initial idea was to create a trench coat as it Shane’s that look and attuned of a person which can also be used to show empowerment. But as changes to the ides and design I wanted to create a full outfit but still wanted to a incorporate an element of a trench coat into the design.

“Storm Patch: In original trench coats, this flap served a double purpose, to wick away more rain and also to protect from the kickback of a rifle. … Raglan sleeves: The sleeves of a trench coat extend fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam instead of one on top of the shoulder.”

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The ideas of storm patch and be fused with bulletproof vests as the purpose of the storm patch was to wick rain and also protect from the kick back of the riffle, as bothe relates towards protection (protection towards guns) this is a good element to take in the design.

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Fiesta sample created using calico with a thin layer of packing material inbetween as it adds a slight thickness which is then quilted stitched.

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Second sample with two layers of stuffing Cotten material which gives the quilted pattern depth. The image above also shows that I have tried the patent pinned at the shoulder Sean and also at the side seam. The side seam makes it bit tight whereas the shoulder seam a lowers the storm patch to move freely.

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This sample was inspired by Timothy Oulton button sofa, the circular stitching at points were the lines intersect are replicated from the design of the button sofa from Timothy Oulton collection, I like this sample as it’s more classy and also gives a feel of home and comfort.

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Sample 2 nothing has has changed other then adding thin strips of plastic and denim stitched on tho the storm patch. The ideas of adding the strips of access material is to keep a balance between all the pieces of the garment. For the final storm patch the material to be used will be the same material used to make the top (cream colour) and will include denim strips over the plastic strips which is unlike the sample.

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Final storm patch with denim over the plastic strips.

F/W 2018

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The first image above is again a layered trench coat which goes with the idea of comfort and warmth as the ss18 look book by Maxxij collection, the second image is what caught my attention; what I’m most interested in is the quilted vest, very similar to a bullet proof vest as the side Velcro stripes make it obvious. I like the quilted vest as it can be used as protection, victim ready to fight and are bullet proof as no one can stop them,this shows strength and confidence.

Some bulletproof vest research:

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“FEARFUL GIRL”

While researching bulletproof vest I came across this image a statue “fearful girl” sculpture by Kristen Visbal places in front of the “charging bull” in Newyork.

The bullet proof vest is not an original part of the sculpture but was put on by a father who lost his child during the school shooting in Parkland,Florida. The “ fearful girl” wearing the vest makes a statement that the children’s are no safe and needs protection even in school. This relates to trafficking as children are kidnapped, abducted form their families and moved into trafficking.

The bulletproof vest gave me an idea of not creating a vest but to fuse a part of a trench coat and the bulletproof proof vest together.

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The element which I took from the trench coat was the storm patch from Burberry research and the ideas of quilting pattern came across from Timothy Oulton an a antique, British heritage designer handmade pieces furniture and accessories brand. And I was in love with the rustic leather look of the quilted sofas which had a thick quilting; which can be unusual for a storm patch with a quilt on the garment but I think it’s more effective as it acts like an armour and who comfort and homelessness .

Leather & Fabric Sofas – Furniture | Timothy Oulton Distinctive sofas in hand-finished vintage-looking leathers, linen and moleskin. Authentically handcrafted furniture by Timothy Oulton. timothyoulton.com

The aim was to achieve similar sleeves as NFL sleeves:

I did not know how to construct a sleeve but when shown I was surprised as the pattern for the sleeve was not the way I had imagined.

I created many sleeve toile in differentr size and cut in different angle to achieve a NFL similar sleeve, I also pleated the sleeve to make it puff and stand big. When I was the have look at some of the new collection, Alexander McQueens pre-fall 2019 had a similar style sleeve on a trench coat which I was trying to achieve initially.

Pattern cutting:

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The ideas raised form the research of dangerous sport, and before the research I kneed that I want to include NFL in my design.

The sampling of sleev was not a success so Moving on Idea of shoulder pads sparked in my head and thought of extending the shoulder pads a bit off the shoulder which could act like sleeves and protection.

When reason I wanted to add shoulder pads in the design is to present strong women, fearless, fighting back.

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Initial shoulder pad sample

The first sample was directly using the black plastic material with yellow stitching ( which was used to match with the stitching on the half jacket) In quilted pattern to match the storm patch so it flows with the design.

Next I created some more sample: some with one layer of stuffing material over the shoulder pad to create depth for the quilted pattern then a second sample smiler but which double the layer of the stuffing material which created double depth for the quilted pattern.

Final shoulder pad sample

The shoulder pads which I go for he shop where not similar to the once which I used in my samples, as it was difficult to find similar shoulder pads.
Moving on I used the bigger semi circled shoulder pads to create the sample and used only one layer of stuffing material as I like the way it did not create much depth.the outcome of the sample was very good so I decided to use the bigger shoulder pads.

Making of the final shoulder pads

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To start of with I created cut out pattern of the shoulder pad; next I started of by cutting calico the middle layer between the top (plastic) and the bottom layer. (cream top material)
Then I moved on and cut out the plastic material and finally the cream material which I used for the tops of the garment.

Each of the shoulder pads needed one of the three material including the stuffing material.

The yellow coloured stitching to match the stitching on the half jacket) turned into a final colour to be stitched on the shoulder pads as it contrasted from the black plastic and also add a different colour to the palette.

Overall the yellow stitching on the jacket and pads balanced the garment colour palette.

Behind the black back drop theres going to be cage which will be visibility as the backdrop is going to be ripped apart and then the garment presented in the foreground. The backdrop will also include word spray painted in the style off artist Christopher wool.