Toile 1: before creating the first toile I draped a piece of fabric on to the stand to create a rough pattern for the toile before cutting the pattern. (The stand was set to the models measurements).  

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After draping and cutting the front and back pattern I marked and cut out the darts for the top and moved onto making the first pattern for the first toile out of paper. 

Toile1:  

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The toile was not perfect as it was to big on both sides, so to improve it I folded, pined and adjusted the toile to a perfect fit to create the second toile pattern. 

Toile 2:  

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While creating the second toile for the top I got an idea to extend the top in a mini dress Of  which the half could act as an under layer under the translucent textured material skirt. In like the darts cut from the ends of toile 1 for toile 2 I got advice form Wendy (lecturer) to create the darts in the middle as narrow ovals and not to start from the bottom ends to the bust. Which worked well. 

 Toile 3: 

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I deducted I cm from the sleeve as they did not Aline perfectly. 

Toile 4: 

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Toile 4 pattern cut was just an experiment with the darts as I used the min over dart cut but extended it to the end of the pattern, as an experiment to see if I can perfect the dart. Which I did not like.  

Toile 5: 

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This was the final toile but when fitted on the stand the front of the toile was to big as the side seams extended over where there nor all need to lay. So I abducted some fratricidal form the front pattern of the toile and create a new front pattern cutout. 

Toile 5: fitting

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Toile 6: 

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Improved front pattern cutout And for the back I used the pattern cutout form the toile5 as it was perfect and only the front needed adjusting. As see in the image the front is perfect (ignore the sleeves). The back as a bit of extra fabric which can be taken of but before that I will be doing some samples.

 I tired on of the pre final toile (might be toile 5) on the model and had to do many adjustments: dart, collar sleeves, as I had to do de construct it. 

Adding the band to the mini skirt:

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Samples for the padded word skirt: bar like design and the second sample a quilted design, both of the design are good but I’m most attracted toward the second sample the quilted pattern.

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The idea was to create the want bad as a one design but the above sample is interesting word skirt joined to the quilted band which then again ends up into words which is very contrasting but also balances the design.

So the final decision for eh brand will be the half quilted with word band

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Embroidering the word strip, tricky there’s no much surface to work with:

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The final out come with the band, very happy with the finish as the stitching is seamless and looks sharp.

Denim on the edge of the padded word skirt, as I liked the colour palette with the denim although I had to abduct it of the design I think I’m going to be adding it back into the design but only strips at the edge of the padded skirt as the contrast of black and blue is amazing and also like the roughness of the denim as it gives a bit rough of edge to the design.

Some more rough ideas:

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Adding extra patch like puffer jacket with buttons.

Before moving any further I Wanted to make sure that I made right decisions, so t start I had to decide which side I wanted the pattern to direct.

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The two images above are drapes of the translucent fabric: the first sample have the lines directed horizontally, and in the second sample the lines are directed vertically.

If I choose the first sample the waist band will have to run in vertically direction as a contrast same with the second sample the opposite.

i was very fussy to make up my mind and by getting opinions from my parents i have decided to go with the first sample as the horizontally directed lies make the skirt flow better then the vertically directed lines as they disfigure the flow ( it was a difficult decision to make).

Pattern cutting the fabric:

As I had a perfect amount of fabric to make the skirt I had to make sure that I get it right on the first go.

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Before cutting the material I made sure that that the pattern is running in the right direction in order when pattern cut, will achieve horizontal lines in the pattern.

As I was patter cutting forgotten to turn the pattern cutout (front to back) to get the opposite back pattern, as the other side of the material was different textured. It was a shocking stage in the process as I was short on the material; but luckily critically thinking I manage to tweak the pattern and fixed the problem.

Sewing the skirt:

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Sewing the waist band to the skirt:

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Before fusing the waist band to the skirt sampled it on the stand; if seen very closely you will notice that the both of the images are different as in the first image the waist band pattern is running in a vertically direction opposite to the skirt pattern (horizontal)

And horizontally in the second image.

Both of the samples look god but the pattern of the waist band creates a bit contrast in the pattern which I like there’re decided on the first sample.

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Changed my mind and used the second sample waist band pattern directed in the same direction as the skirt (horizontally). The above images are after fusing the band to the skirt which lined perfectly.

screen short of the word embroidery: (could no tpost on the website) https://www.instagram.com/nigelfernandes_fashionart/

The process of embroidering the words: to do this I printed out the the layout of words the way I wanted them to be embroidered, the next stage was to precisely embroidery the outline of the words to get a smooth outline of the word when done. The paper on top of the plastic material also helped me in the sewing process as with out the paper the plastic would stick to the stud and would not go through.

Material checking: as I’m going to use plastic which was used for packaging, this is me recycling the material by turning it into a skirt , the image above is me quality checking the material making sure that there is no any damage on it and is all even and good to be used.

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From embroidered to the finish mini skirt, this was Avery challenging piece which I had to do, as it required a massive amount of time to embroidery the words. On the other hand it was a nightmare as after the embroidery I had segregate the paper form the plastic which was not easy, as the image in the middle (the front panel) I had do make a second one as for the first panel which I created, I used water to wash the paper off which was a bad idea as tiny bits of paper go stuck in the embroidery threads which would not come of; therefore had to embroidery another whole new panel which was time consuming process again and when done I decided to separate the paper by hand which toke hours and hours as the paper was strong and had to be careful while pulling the paper making sure I do not destroy the embroidery. Over all the process thought me how long it takes to make a good piece, and it was worth the hours as the finish product was worth it.

The the form panel after using water to separate the paper.

This accidental mistake is a great out come as the words are more obvious, but the style that I’m going for is more subtle and detailed which can be observed when closer to the skirt.

Sampling the under layer color pallet for the skirt. as the skirt it self is translucent, see through.

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As the skirt material is translucent ( black textured material) I wanted to add a under layer to the skirt. In the image above I have used multi coloured material or cultural material which can be related to Yinka Shonibare colour pallet, use of cultural colour and material.

Not sure if I’m going to use it as an under layer as its to colour full and will not go with the neutral colour pallet. on the other had when is over layer by the translucent black material the multi coloured material is not much visibly but gives a little bit of coloured distortion through the textured material.

sampling and refining the final color pallet an elements of the skirt:

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The first image is with the padded word skit and with out the denim kangaroo pocket which I like as the second image with the denim jacket makes the skirt heavy and disfigures the translucent textured skirt. The denim sample above is bit tweaked as I have added threads/ strips of red postage bag materials into the gaps which give it a rough destroyed appearance.

Overal my final decission on the skirt colour pallete will be the first solour pallet above the one without the denim as it keeps the skirt in shape and makes it more allegent and neutral.

The making process of the toile.

Toile 1:

Toile 1 was the first attempt of making the skirt; (before making a start on the toile the stand was not set to the models measurements which was a down side of the process).

The first toile when done was to big on the stand as the darts puffed out and excess fabric at the back, which meant I had to deduce few centimetres of the first toile to create second toile pattern.

Toile 2:

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Toile 2 was a perfect fit on the stand as did not had to make any changes to the toile. secondly i cut the towel to knee length short.

Toile 3: before making toile 3.

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At this point I was heading to make the final skirt as I had the measurement of the model; as I set the stand to the models measurement and then when tried toile 2 on the stand it was to small for the models measurement and toil 1 was to big and not a figured fit. (the image above is toile 2 as I have shortened it more, i like the short length of the skirt as it goes with the research of muslin women and girls are not allowed to wear short dresses as they have to conceal themselves from strangers. The short skirt toil also add empowerment proving that women can make their own decisions and not live by others rules).

The pro about toile 2 when fitted on the stand ( with models measurement) the front of the skirt was perfect fit as the darts were smooth and lined; as it was to small at the back and could not connect around, this means that I only have to extend the back of the skirt( toile 2) to get the right and refined pattern for toile 3, to make it a measured fit.

Images of tabloid samples and drape

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To create this sample I use A3 paper format in which size I have cut the calico then stitched it to form a news paper and created different drapes, the last image which I achieved can be related to Issabella Falkrih design the vertical tabloid newspaper like folded edges garment it’s not very similar to it but gives an ideas of it, as the pattern looks very attention seeking in front of the body and with the news messages on with will be more reasonable and will address the issue.

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The Ruffled new snapper drape on the shoulder is another great idea as it shows confusion and fear. It also can be used to show how many stories and cases are being postponed an being rested onto the shelves as achieves.

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Isabella Falkrih is a graduate form Swedish school of textile and the images above are form her collection ‘under pressure’ as she said ‘ The collection is about stress, it’s about work becoming everything….’(refers to the website). As the collection is about stress the first image above shows fear and covering… hiding for something.

The sharp vertical plated like folds related to my news paper idea as the folders on the garment look like news paper edges at the bottom and on top as they are opened.

I tried to use this ideas for my design but could not achieve it so I did other samples similar to it.

Isabella Falkirk – Volt Café | by Volt Magazine Isabella Falkirk: A recent graduate from the Swedish School of Textiles speaks to Volt Café about the paradoxes of creating a collection whi Volt Café | by Volt Magazine

The lost children of Francosim:

Spain’s stolen babies Spanish society has been shaken by revelations of the mass trafficking of babies, dating back to the Franco era but continuing until the 199 BBC News

300,000 babies stolen from their parents – and sold for adoption: Haunting BBC documentary exposes 50-year scandal of baby trafficking by th Hundreds of families who had babies taken from Spanish hospitals, such as Randy Ryder (pictured), are now battling for an official governmen Mail Online

To shocking research to find out that new born babies were sold form their mother when born.

This all started under Franco ruled, this was a legal practice in Spain where babies were abducted from their parents and carried on. When the baby was born they were take away form t he parent s and a nun would com back ad say the baby is dead as it was not unhealthy or other reason; the dead baby showed to the mother was not the biological baby as it was a frozen baby preserved to represent the dead baby. Another shocking fact is that the parents were not allowed to attende their babies burial as the the hospital woul said they would Thame care of it, and further on they would not be any evidence (paperwork) as it would be destroyed.

Victims who were target were single mother who were not financially stable or said to not deserve that baby, this babies were sold to other families by doctors and priests; as the babies were sold at a high price. This is very scary and heart breaking to know a new born baby being separated form their parents and during the franco rule was considered as legel.

If you think about the Morden society, I bet there is a presents of similar issues of selling babies carried on illegal. Abducting kids like Madeleine McCann a mysterious case can be related to selling kid for money, but the question remains where is sheer is she alive, was it done by her parents or did the sell her inreturn for money?- the answers are unknown.